It was one of St. Petersburg’s beautiful breezy evenings. We had finished an early dinner at The Birchwood on Beach Drive and as we walked out the door we noticed a beautiful white carriage with a large black horse standing at the curb across the way. My wife, the animal lover, had to go and pet the good-looking animal. When we stepped up on the curb we were met by the driver who allowed my wife to pet the horse and asked if we would like to take the tour. It was still light out and we thought it would be a pleasant end to our night.
Neighborhood Charm
As we wandered the brick streets of the oldest section of Historic Old Northeast we couldn’t help but marvel at the giant Spanish-moss-draped oak trees and historic homes. Were it not for the autos parked along the street we could well have gone back in time or perhaps somehow entered the pages of a romantic Southern novel. Funny, we have lived in St. Petersburg for nearly 30 years and traveled these same streets many times without truly paying much attention to the ambiance of the area. But at a slow clip-clop, we were able to appreciate the area’s beauty.
We passed busy restaurants and shops on Beach Drive, making our way by the Vinoy Renaissance Park Hotel to North Shore Drive. At the intersection with 10th Avenue NE, our driver pointed out the Gizella Kopsick Arboretum just north of the North Shore swimming pool. The arboretum contains more than 150 species represented by more than 500 palms and cycads. It is open from 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes after sunset daily.
The Northeast Draw
Our carriage driver was quite knowledgeable and kept up a running commentary about the area. As we made our way down Coffee Pot Blvd. NE, he pointed to a three-story Italianate house across the bayou on Snell Isle and said the house was built by C. Perry Snell in 1924. Snell along with J.C. Hamlett was responsible for developing the Northeast Neighborhood. Their stated goal at the time was to build the premier residential neighborhood along Coffee Pot Bayou next to the city. Begun in 1911, what is now the Historic Old Northeast is bordered by 5th Avenue North to 30th Avenue North and 4th Street North to Tampa Bay. C. Perry Snell was an advocate of William Straub’s waterfront park system and was instrumental in extending the park northward to Coffee Pot Bayou. This gave the city the major part of the waterfront. This park with its large open spaces is one of the greatest attractions of Old Northeast and draws visitors and St. Petersburg residents alike to enjoy the waterfront.
Within its borders the eclectic neighborhood contains every type of architecture used before the 1950’s: Mediterranean, Colonial, Tudor, Prairie, and Craftsman Bungalow, to name a few. Further along on Coffee Pot Blvd. we came upon the Granada Terrace subdivision, which was also platted by Snell. It was required that all buildings within its borders be built in the Mediterranean style. In 1988 it was designated as a Local Historic District. It is a compact neighborhood whose features include a large, concrete pylon pergola and benches on the west side of the Boulevard. Granada Park bisects the South portion of the area, ending on the east side of Coffee Pot Boulevard in a large, semi-circular drive with a broad sidewalk along the water.
Explore Coffee Pot Bayou
This sidewalk is part of a 2-mile walking & biking path that runs from downtown St. Petersburg, along the edge of Tampa Bay, and on to Coffee Pot Bayou. It is a safe, well-lit path with fantastic views, benches for resting and access to a small beach off of North Shore Park. While manatees can be seen along the bayou most of the year, they are more numerous during our cooler months when they seek respite from the colder waters of the Gulf.
We arrived back at our starting point, gave the horse a final pat, and paid for our tour along with a generous tip for the very enjoyable and enlightening 45-minute ride.
You too Can Tour the Historic Old Northeast
Each year, usually on the second Sunday in December, the Historic Old Northeast Neighborhood Association hosts The Candlelight Tour of Homes with selected residents opening their homes to visitors. Many of the architectural styles are featured. Proceeds benefit neighborhood community improvement projects, with a portion going to a selected local charity. This year the tour is Dec. 9th from 3pm – 8pm and proceeds benefit The Sunken Gardens Forever Foundation. Tickets are $25 per person in advance and $30 the day of the event. For more info or to purchase tickets, visit honna.org.
